Our Services
Being in the therapeutic lawn industry this long, has raised a lot of questions as to my techniques and why I am passionate about what I do. The following will help you understand our process and why we use it.
Lawn Thatch and Compacted Soil
The mulching that collects above the soil that is the result of dead or cut pieces of grass is known as thatching. In small quantities, thatch can be helpful due to the natural process of decomposition enriching the microbial quality of the soil. Too much thatch that defeats these processes and a lawn cannot be effectively fertilized or overseeded. This smothering of the soil hampers air and nutritional carrying moisture from permeating into the ground when thatch gets to half an inch or more.
Lawns that are not performing to expectations despite watering and fertilization probably have thatch or compacted soil. These impede the free movement of water, nutrients, and air within the ground resulting in the starvation of the grassroots. Soil that a screwdriver cannot easily be inserted into is too compacted, and a spongy lawn containing emaciated grass is a sign of too much thatch. A mat of thatch that cannot allow a finger to pass through to the soil beneath the turf is excessive and stifles the lawn. The compactness of soil is resolved with aeration, while thick thatch must be dethatched to allow for a healthy lawn. With a core aerator, plugs of soil are dug up from the lawn to loosen it and allow grass nutritional, air and water vitals to seep through.
A mat of thatch that cannot allow a finger to pass through to the soil beneath the turf is excessive and stifles the lawn. Moss forms from a combination of poor drainage, unbalanced PH levels & nutrition deficiencies commonly in areas receiving less than 4 hours of sunlight. Moss must be physically removed to begin the process of re-establishing a positive growing environment for cool-season turfgrass in the NW. The compactness of soil is resolved with aeration, while thick thatch must be dethatched to allow for a healthy lawn. With a core aerator, plugs of soil are dug up from the lawn to loosen it and allow grass nutritional, air and water vitals to seep through.
When is The Best Time to Dethatch a Lawn?
The best time to dethatch a lawn is when the grass is young to give it a better dormant period. For lawn grass that grows well during the warm season, a late spring dethatching after first growth is helpful. A summer dethatching however will allow too much moisture content depletion resulting in dead patches by springtime.
Grass associated with the cold season is dethatched in autumn or early September during its growth spurt. Can be thatched in early Spring followed by Starter Fertilizer and Overseeding. For best results, mid-August-early October thatching is recommended. Fall
has the perfect weather for establishing new cool-season turf and
provides ample time for seed roots to mature for the next Spring season
What is Aeration of a Lawn?
The process of making openings in a lawn to allow better nutrients, water, and air intake is called aeration. This is done to reduce soil compacting and also alleviates thatching using an aerator. An aerator contains hollow or spoon-shaped tines to spike, core or slice the lawn soil.
When is the Best Time for Lawn Aeration?
The perfect time for aeration depends on the type of grass a lawn has. Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue, for instance, prefer spring and fall for best results. The cooler temperature of spring/fall allows for heat stress minimization in the grass, and the chances of invading weeds are curtailed.
Centipede grass, St. Augustine grass, Zoysia grass or Bermuda grass that perform well in the warm seasons is aerated in summer or late spring. This is the time that the grass is growing actively and aerating gives it a better chance of healthy maturity. Aerating a lawn with these types of grass should be done early in the morning or late evening. This is when temperatures are cooler to reduce the loss of moisture from the lawn soil.
Dry season aeration will require the drenching of the lawn with at least an inch of water the previous day to soften the soil. Marking of irrigation or utility lines and sprinkler heads is vital to avoid their damage by the aerator. A once over aeration is sufficient for lightly compacted soil, with a second pass necessary for severe cases. Once the aeration plugs have dried up, two opposite direction passes with the lawnmower breaks and spreads out plugs evenly.
A thorough watering of the lawn after mowing will speed the process of dissolution to the aeration plugs. This assists the soil in maintaining a humus-rich top layer that has the microbial content needed to deal with common lawn problems like thatch.
How Often Should a Lawn be Aerated?
Every lawn has its specifications depending on factors like thatch, foot
traffic and the type of prevalent grass. Aerating twice a year (Spring/Fall) is recommended to reduce Soil Compaction, Improve Drainage and Promote Air Circulation along with routine Fertilization to maintain lush green disease-free turf in the NW.
Fertilization and Overseeding:
Part of the healthy growth of lush green lawns is overseeding; the process of planting seed over already existing grass. This is done to rejuvenate dead patches of grass, and the process does not call for digging up or interfering with the turf. The general quality of a lawn can be significantly improved through the reviving of damage from heat, foot traffic and lack of watering.
Fertilization provides the deficient nutrients to lawn grass and can be done before or after overseeding. Starter versions of fertilizers that contain potassium, phosphorous and nitrogen can are applied after seeding to give the new shoots proper nutrition.
Directions
- Lawn should be mowed to a height of 1 1/2 - 2 inches prior to appointment. Mowing services can be provided with prior notification.
- Please mark all sprinkler heads and shallow buried lines. -We pill plugs up to 3 inches.
- Please ensure yard toys, chairs & dog poop are clear from lawn prior to our appointment. If you need help moving something just ask in advance.
- Non irrigated lawns may need a thorough watering as temperatures rise for maximum plug depth. If mother natures rain visited during the week we should be good to go.
Cost
Core Aeration
(up to 3,000 sq ft)
$120.00
Calcitic Lime
(100 lbs.)
$75.00
Soil Amendment
(up to 3,000 sq ft)
$100.00
Lawn Detox
Dethatching/Cleanup/Haul (per 1,000 sq ft)
$150.00
Lawn Rehab 
Core Aeration, Starter Fertilizer, Overseeding (up to 3,000 sq ft)
$225.00
Additional Seed
( up to 12 lbs.)
$50.00
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